Durrës, the Largest Port of Albania

We visited Durrës this last weekend and several things struck me about the city. Durrës is much less busy and much more quiet a city than Tirana, a city roughly 30 minutes away. Durrës has less than a third of the population of Tirana. As we were walking down the streets of this port city, I noticed the constant lining of palm trees along the streets, a marked difference from Tirana.

We paid a visit to the Durrës amphitheater; it was fantastic. It's only 400 leke per person, which is less than $4 per person, to get in and it was well worth the money. The edifice had the same feeling that parts of Rome did. There were ancient tombs and ancient Christian mosaics. The Byzantine forum, just a few blocks away from the amphitheater, was also beautiful.

It was interesting to see those things with their beautiful ornate columns and grand arches, and then a short while later see the severe, austere architecture of the Communist era just a short distance away. Its hard, concrete edges, unadorned metal, etc., provide a stark contrast to the older items elsewhere in the city. 

Straying away from the topic of architecture, we stayed at a very nice hotel there in Durrës -- one of the nicest hotels I've ever stayed at, and yet it was cheaper than the average hotel in the U.S. We had a view of the Adratic Sea (as pictured above) and it was only a short bus ride from the center of the city. The people at the hotel were so incredibly nice and hospitable.

We had some delicious food there as well! We had gelato that would have given the stuff in Italy a run for its money; we had amazing pasta and sea food that was to die for! Durrës was a great experience; an experience everyone should have!

Big City; Small Town Feel

The thing that's struck me about Tirana while I've stayed here is that the streets have never felt crowded to me. Even in the middle of the afternoon, you never have to vie for space as you sit at a table in Tirana's central park and share a drink with a friend. Tirana looks like a big city, and by most accounts it is a big city, but it feels smaller than it is. In fact, the only time I've ever felt crowded is on the city's public transportation, which is a relatively nice system, albeit a sometimes overburdened one. 

Also contributing to this feeling is the fact that, by and large, everyone seems to know each other, especially in the neighborhoods and more enclosed streets with the smaller markets and other stores. Kids play around the city constantly, making it feel more like a suburb than anything else. While walking down the main streets, people stop suddenly when they recognize a friend and stop to clap hands and talk for a while. 

Tirana is an amazing city with a friendly air. Add on top of this that the country and the city are not yet inundated with tourists yet—not like Rome or Athens, etc. The people of Tirana aren't fed up with the constant flow of tourists that plague so many other places and so they're much more welcoming to the ones they do happen across. In my time here, I've seen perhaps three or four other tourists. Not many tourists come to Albania; but it's their lost. Albania is a great place with many amazing things to see.

The Generosity of the Albanian People

Since being here in Albania, my family and I have been met with countless acts of kindness and generosity, one after another. We took a taxi from the airport to our apartment—the taxi driver took money off our fare when we got to the apartment and made sure we didn't forget our daughter's sock that had fallen off!

We go to the same bakery every few days to get bread (which is delicious)—and as an aside, mass produced store bought bread that's prepackaged, etc., isn't really a thing here; you buy fresh bread from a local bakery and it tastes great. This will be one of the many things I will undoubtedly miss about Albania. Anyway, the baker frequently gives us an extra pastry for free for our daughter to munch on. 

Other instances of kindness include: people here on buses often stand up and let my wife sit down; breathless, they run out to us after leaving a place, and hand us something we forgot or remind us of something. 

The people of Albania are a kindhearted people and they are extremely receptive to new people; this has been one of many things that has made my family and I's stay here very enjoyable. They are willing to go to lengths to help you, like writing down the prices of things for you or always printing out receipts when you're buying something!

A New Intern; His Perspective on Albanian Food

Since arriving in Albania, I've encountered different food, I've struggled with the language barrier, and I've had to adjust to life in a larger city — but one thing I've not really had to deal with is culture shock. Life here in Albania is not so different from life elsewhere. People always ask me what the weirdest thing here is, ask me how foreign it is here — I always struggle with answering that question or giving them a response that would intrigue. I always settle with the response: "It's not that different in Albania; it's not that strange."

However, that's not to say there aren't differences between Albanian and, say, American culture. Of course there are. We live in a dynamic world with dynamic people after all and Albania and its culture is no exception. But the differences are not instrumentally huge. This first blog post will more or less consist of a list of things that have to do with food!

The restaurants here are amazing and really convenient. A lot of them have outdoor seating too, so it makes it quite simple to just pause while you're walk, decide you're hungry, and plop yourself down. There's usually someone watching the outside seating, so a server comes to you and gives you a menu fairly quickly. A common thing that people eat at these more casual restaurants is something called "qofte" (pronounced chofta), which are these nicely sized sausages, along with fries and a few other things. You can order a really good sized meal for two people for less than 10 dollars many times, making it actually cheaper a lot of the time to dine out! A dream come true!

Many of these restaurants have at least one person who speaks fairly good English, so ordering food has never been too much of a hassle. The times where they don't have someone who speaks English, we just shoot from the hip and point at a few things on the menu and hope they taste good! We haven't been disappointed yet with the food, even when we're not sure what we're ordering.

The baked goods in Tirana, Albania, are to die for! Truly, they're delicious. There's bakeries everywhere you go in Tirana and everywhere there's the smell coming from them. There's cakes, donuts, scones filled with every filling imaginable, and a lot more. In addition to the baked good being tasty, they're also inexplicably cheap, making them an affordable thing to snack on from time to time.

Lastly, there's these tiny markets that are no bigger than a smaller bedroom — they're just as, if not more, numerous as the bakeries. These are the places you should go to get your everyday groceries. Unlike in the U.S., these smaller places are cheaper and more convenient than the huge supermarkets. It's the opposite in Albanian, really, with the supermarkets being the more expensive out of the pairing. Although the markets do accept credit and debit cards, which is something the tinier markets do not do. 

Albania has been a fantastic experience thus far, with the amazing food being only a part of it! I'll continue this blog focusing on other parts of this great place, its culture, and any other aspect of this country I can think of. Thanks.

Youth Promote Albanian Culture

We have had the opportunity to do some traveling this past week and experience the culture even more. There were a few things that really stuck out. First, we saw people joining together doing their traditional dances. Now that might seem normal for some and maybe not even special, however,  what made this special was the fact that those dancing were all between the ages of 18 to 24. We were amazed to see the younger generation get together and outwardly show their appreciation for their culture. What made this even more memorable was that before the traditional dancing started there was modern music playing in an attempt to get everyone dancing and having a good time. However, it wasn’t until the traditional Albanian music started when everyone got up and started dancing.

If someone were to start playing traditional music back home we wouldn’t know what to do. Most would probably just wait to see what everyone else did, and odds are no one would know how to do the traditional dance. Even if there was one person that knew how to do the dance I doubt they would start dancing because it wouldn’t be the “cool” thing to do. It is sad to see parts of one’s culture die off; however, it is unlikely that the Albanians will ever let their culture die off. That is proven in the way the youth promote their own culture. 

Quality Food and Service in Tirane

In our time living in Tirane, we've had the wonderful opportunity to visit numerous restaurants, bakeries, and markets, each of which sport a wide range of freshly prepared, and very affordable, food. One universal feature here is the fact that no matter where you go to get food, you will always be treated with kindness and very efficient service.  Even at fast food restaurants, your food will be served to you directly by a waiter who will go out of his way to make sure you are treated properly. 

The food itself is some of  the finest we've ever had. There is a wide array of food types to choose from. Anything ranging from Italian to Arabic can be found in copious amounts throughout the city (there are even a few Mexican restaurants near the U.S. Embassy). No matter where you go, the food you order will almost always be prepared from materials fresh from the local markets.   

In the time we've spent out and about, neither of us have yet to go to a restaurant that has had poor food or service. We have always been treated with extreme kindness by the locals, and the language barrier has hardly been an issue. It's been very surprising for us to have such high quality food  so widely available and for very affordable prices. In the U.S., the same quality of food would cost a great deal more and would certainly not be as fresh nor as widely available as it is here in Tirane. We're definitely going to miss it when we return home. 

Act of Kindness

These past few weeks we have been able to go around getting to know the area. We don't take any buses or taxis because we enjoy walking outside here. Spring has begun and all of the trees and flowers are blossoming as everything starts to get greener. Looking up at the mountains that surround Tirana allow us not to feel overwhelmed in a city, but rather comfortable and relaxed. Not only is it absolutely beautiful here this time of the year, the people are very kind and easygoing. Just last week we went out to eat at one of our favorite restaurants and as we were about to leave the owner comes over to us and expresses his gratitude for our business and then goes on to say that the check was on the house. Personally, no one has ever done that for me, I was shocked and very grateful at the same time. We will definitely be returning to give them more business, not to mention their food is amazing. 

Shkodra and Rozafat Castle

Shkodra is a large city in northern Albania. It is a strategic economically important city having easy access to the Adriatic Sea. Various writers and poets like Pashko Vasa originate from this city. The city and region is known for its cultural and musical aspects. On my visit to this city I climbed up to the Rozafat Castle.

Rozafat Castle is rooted in legend and folklore. The story is that three brothers were trying to build a castle but with every effort the walls would fall and they had no success. An old man approaches them and tells them in order to successfully build the castle they must burry alive one of their wives within the castle walls or it will never be constructed. Upon hearing this the men are grieved because they do not wish that they should lose their wives. Two of the brothers told their wives of the plan so that they would not suffer the horrible fate. The youngest brother on the other hand did not tell his wife.

The next day the wives of the older brothers did not bring them lunch as to avoid the fate. The youngest wife willingly went to provide the men their food. Upon arriving the youngest son, seeing his wife screamed in agony for he knew her fate. The other brothers explained that she would be built into the walls of the castle. She bravely said, "I have only one request, leave the right side of my body outside the wall. With my right eye I will watch over my son, with my right breast I will nurse him, with my right arm I will care for him, and my right leg will rock him."

And so she was walled in. Today it is believed that the castle walls are damp with her tears. Throughout the castle there is white residue believed to be her breast milk flowing throughout the castle walls.

Albania is rich in folklore and stories of brave men and women who always put either their family or their people first.

 

It is said that in some regions of the Balkans there was a tradition that human sacrifices were required in order to construct great buildings. There are stories of bridges also with people built into them. Perhaps the Rozafat Castle is an expression of such traditions.

Story source: 

Robert Elsie

http://www.albanianliterature.net/oral_lit3/OL3-06.html

Albanian Ethnicity

To be Albanian does not necessarily mean belonging to the nation-state of Albania. It is very much an ethnicity; a nation within many states. Albanians are descendants from an Illyrian tribe that is believed to have arrived to the Illyrian Peninsula even before the Greeks. The Region of Albania has been inhabited by the Albanians throughout the Greek, Roman, and Ottoman Empires. The region of Albania, Kosovo, part of Greece, part of Macedonia, and part of Montenegro were all claimed to be part of Albania. in 1912 however the current borders were decided with its independence. Today there are many Albanians who live in these other countries but declare themselves Albanian. There are other Albanian diasporas in various countries around Europe, Egypt, and the U.S. 

Throughout History Albanians have always resisted the rule of any Empire; but in time the Byzantines would conquer the region bringing Orthodox Christianity with them. Later Catholicism would enter in the region. Then the Ottomans came and filled the region with Islam.  Soon the region would lack unity and struggle with its identity between conflicting religion, culture, and ethnicities. The communist regime in the 20th century would prove to unify Albania under one national identity.

Albania and ethnic Albanians today are extremely proud of their identity and ethnicity. When the Albanian national soccer team plays ethnic Albanians everywhere outside of the country will be seen cheering and roaring for their team. Just the other day I had the opportunity to witness some sport/patriotic spirit. After the game with Albania against Armenia with an Albanian win I heard the chants,

 "ALBANIAN ETHNICITY!"

Fresh Food

Food is the giver of life. In Albania it has been wonderful eating fresh food. Good wholesome food is available from the market, fruit vendors, and bakeries and it is all fresh! Some of the produce comes from the farms that morning. The greens like lettuce, onions, spinach, and other herbs make for a delicious salad.

Cheese in Albania is something special. They use in in a lot of dishes and foods. You'll find it in salads, in byrek, pastas, pizzas, and it even goes dilightfully well with jam on bread. They have many varieties ranging from sharp to creamy, crumbly to soft. It is the perfect way to flavour a dish.

The bread is extremely tasty along with the pastries and sweet goods. They have fresh loafs of white, wheat, and multigrain. Cookies, eclairs, crossants, and trileche cakes are some of the best dessert goods.

At the end of the day when you head to the cafe with friends hot chocolate is a treat. When you ask for hot chocolate, first you are expecting a hot cocoa drink, but what arrives is a thick chocolate pudding-like treat. It is delightful!

And lastly, Fanta Exotic. You wont find it anywhere else. I don't like Fanta myself, but Fanta Exotic is pretty good. Albania is one of the only nations in which it can be found.

Communicating in Albania

The way in which we understand each other is an art, a skill, and a necessity. Communication is vastly different between people around the world. A culture can have a profound effect on one's communication and paradigm. In that way it is like a cultural artifact; a piece of how people are around the world. It gives uniqueness to interactions between people around the world.

Albanians are a direct people. Conversations can seem like fights or arguments when really it is just a discussion between friends or family. Raising of the voice may not always mean anger. It isn't uncommon for an Albanian to say things bluntly or boldly. For example, we had met a group of people one day. A few days later we saw one of them in the street. We said hello and chatted for a bit. Later that night we were chatting with another friend of ours. We explained to her that we had seen the other friend earlier that day. She asked us to describe the person. Trying to be polite we used words like "strong," "tall," and "filled." With a look of confusion she asked,"You mean the fat one?"
Our faces turn red and we are suprised at her bluntness, "Yes, yes that's the one."

Gestures in Albania are also hard to catch. Shaking the head is a sign for "yes". This was quite confusing at first. When asked questions at the store like, "would you like a bag?" I would shake my head trying to say no. Then they would smile, gather my things and place them in a bag.  

In Albania, or anywhere for that matter, it is important to pay attention to how people communicate. Direct and foreward cultures like the Albanians may come off as rude, aggressive, and out of line, when actually what they are saying is not hurtful, offensive, or aggresive in any way. They are simply saying exaclty what they feel or see. And gestures are different everywhere.

Top of Tirana

I went up to Dajti, a gondola on the outskirts of Tirana this last weekend. The gondola is set up extremely well as a tourist spot. At the bottom there is a cafe where one can eat and share drinks with friends before the ascent up the mountain. The gondola itself fits about eight people, which is perfect for a group of friends or travelers. Ahead of me were a family and two groups of youth. 

The ride was beautiful, smooth, and quiet. It took about 15 minutes and the ascent was quite gradual. At the top the temperature was quite cooler but the sun kept a warm gaze over everything. They had a park where children were playing, horseback riding, pellet gun shooting, and hiking. There was a hotel and a restaurant overlooking the entire city. The place is an ideal tourist location. I thought of how cool it would be in the winter time if they would cover the trees and buildings in lights, maybe include a big tree exiting the gondola station.

The view was incredible. I sat there for a good half hour or more taking it all in. The mountains and the sea went on forever. I thought about some research I had done on influential figures in Albania's history.

I thought of Pashko Vasa in his poem "Oh Albania, Poor Albania." I imagined him possibly standing in a similar place like this on a mountain overlooking the country; how he felt about his countrymen dividing themselves because of differing faiths, supposed nationalities, and language. He cried to his people to remember who they were and come together. 

I thought of Ndre Mjeda in his piece "Freedom." In a similar spot perhaps, and upon seeing the never-ending mountains thinking, 

"Tell me, eagles, birds of the highlands,

Do the rays of freedom shine upon those peaks,
In the rugged mountain pastures and clearings
Where springs of fresh water murmur in longing?

Have you heard the echo of its anthem
On your flights o'er the cliffs,
Have you heard its comforting song?
Tell me, eagles, birds of the highlands.

Freedom, freedom, the mountains cry,
But can we find it on the earth we ply,
Or will slavery veil our every step?

Fly, eagle, fly to horizons far away,
The mountains surrounding Albania, survey,
Tell us where freedom takes its source.

Freedom is yours! We have iron bars,
Yet we languish in the mists and sombre night,
No one knows our name, stripped of our country,
We are slaves of the strangers on our own soil.

Like chattel sold to the butcher, we're driven,
Crazed, by his cane where we don't wish to go,
Sighs and lamentation on the lips of our people,
Suffering and grief is the name of our land.

The storm of highland heroes in vain
Infiltrates the sleeping plain
Like a bolt of lightning from the clouds.

Crushed by cruel oppression and travail,
Shake in their tombs to no avail
The forgotten bones of Dukagjini and Scanderbeg the Hero.

But no, the Albanian race has not been stamped out,
Wearied by the beatings of a harsh enemy,
Bowed by the darkness of servitude,
It broods and waits for its sudden awakening.

And behold, the flashing strokes of freedom
Extend through the mountains, in stealth advance
From hut to hut, yes, the shadow of Scanderbeg,
A new spirit expands throughout the land.

The mothers of Hoti tend cradles, childbed,
Where fledgling young heroes are nurtured and fed
On the milk of revolt.

And high in the mountains, splendour regal,
Claws outstretched, the Albanian eagle,

Spreads its formidable wings."

"Hope"

Having had the opportunity to speak with Albanian nationals about their own country I have been curious to see how they feel about their own nation. Generally, in my experience Albanians are a patriotic people. They love their food, traditions, and way of life. On other occasions I have spoken with others who do not share the same pride as their compatriots.  

Some have lost faith in their government and its ability to lead the nation. They express that their country now has too many problems to fix. They laugh at the idea of ever being a global player or having an important role in the international stage. They doubt the possibility of joining the EU and constantly compare their nation with other more successful nations. At first I was disheartened and surprised by this apathetic view of one's own nation. 

After pondering on it I had thought also of those who, in my own nation, see only a bleak and unsuccessful future. They complain and accuse their country's leaders for everything. They believe because the President is a Democrat or a Republican that America is doomed. They become bitter and loose hope in their own nation's capacity to do great things. 

The Institute of Leadership has opened my eyes to a different outlook on problems in governments, businesses, and organizations. I have met people with an edified perspective. These often young leaders are learning to take their current situation as it is. They see the future as a goal to accomplish. Yes there are problems and difficult issues now, but an apathetic and negative outlook will only push progress back. They have dreams for their lives and the future of their nation. They speak of Albania being a place of tourism. They talk of its potential and strengths. They believe in their ability and their nation's capacity to do great things. They are learning to lead their lives, and thus become leaders in their respective career paths.

I have learned from them and have changed my own outlook on my own country. I understand that no county has a perfect government free from all corruption and error. It is my responsibility as a future leader in my nation to believe in my nation's capacity to do great things. 

"Hope"

I have great hope

In God

That he will not abandon

Albania thus,

           But that she will shine forth

           And break into blossom.

May the day dawn

That will bestow upon us

A great light,

Giving birth to:

          Civilization,

          Prosperity.

Fraternity

And unity

And compassion

Are our salvation.

           Happy is he who will be present

           When this day comes

When Albania 

Will be radiant

And misfortune

Will be banished 

          Forever

          From her sight.

For Albania

Joyous days 

Are at hand.

The darkness is receding

          Happy is he who will live 

          To see her reign!

For the Albanian

And his language

Are at one

With Albania.

          Happy is he who will

          Behold her soon!

Knowledge

And progress,

And humanity

          Will arise,

          Never to stray.

-Naim Frasheri (Albanian Poet)

Culture Crash Course

Upon arrival I remember stepping off the plain and retreating to a seat in the cafe as my ride had not yet arrived. I watched as groups would enter for their loved ones, greet each other and leave together. The women would always greet each other by a kiss to each cheek and then a hug. The women and men would do the same. Men would place their heads together, touching temples on each side. The culture is very affectionate between family and friends.

After talking to some Albanians about behaviors that are considered polite they gave me a crash course. They explained the greeting with a kiss or placing heads together. They told me that on a bus or in a room, when a woman or elderly person enters, it is customary for men to give up their seat. When people enter a room it is correct to rise and greet them. It is also expected that when walking up stairs, men walk in front of women, and behind them on the way down. Students are expected to rise to greet their teachers. Greetings may be seen as affectionate, but Albania is a more conservative nation. For example, kissing is not common in public. Showing intimate affection is not something you would commonly see outside of the home or in the presence of guests.

Albanians are known for being a hospitable people. A friend shared with me a saying, "An Albanian household is always open to God and guests." A visit is not seen as a quick "drop by." When visiting someone it is important you have given yourself time to be able to sit down, chat, and maybe share a drink. It is not so polite to just drop in and then leave. When guests arrive to the house the hosts will rise from their seats and offer them to their guests.

Vlore

Upon arrival I remember stepping off the plain and retreating to a seat in the cafe as my ride had not yet arrived. I watched as groups would enter for their loved ones, greet each other and leave together. The women would always greet each other by a kiss to each cheek and then a hug. The women and men would do the same. Men would place their heads together, touching temples on each side. The culture is very affectionate between family and friends. After talking to some Albanians about behaviors that are considered polite they gave me a crash course. They explained the greeting with a kiss or placing heads together. They told me that on a bus or in a room, when a woman or elderly person enters, it is customary for men to give up their seat. When people enter a room it is correct to rise and greet them. It is also expected that when walking up stairs, men walk in front of women, and behind them on the way down. Students are expected to rise to greet their teachers. Greetings may be seen as affectionate, but Albania is a more conservative nation. For example, kissing is not common in public. Showing intimate affection is not something you would commonly see outside of the home or in the presence of guests. Albanians are known for being a hospitable people. A friend shared with me a saying, "An Albanian household is always open to God and guests." A visit is not seen as a quick "drop by." When visiting someone it is important you have given yourself time to be able to sit down, chat, and maybe share a drink. It is not so polite to just drop in and then leave. When guests arrive to the house the hosts will rise from their seats and offer them to their guests.

The Amphitheater of Durrës

On the coast of the Adriatic Sea is the Albanian city of Durrës. The city boasts a magnificent coastal view as well as an incredible importance in the history of Albania. Romans, on their way to the Middle East and beyond to the Silk Road would travel directly through this city making it a hub for economic development. Thus it is no surprise that in the 20th Century an archeological discovery was unearthed just to the side of where the original road for the Romans was used. This discovery was a large amphitheater.

It is estimated that in the 2nd Century the amphitheater was built and was home to many gladiator fights, beast battles, and theatrical performances. The amphitheater seats between 15,000-18,000 people making it the largest amphitheater in Southeastern Europe. It remained a place of performances and fights until the rise of the Byzantines in Albania in the 5th Century. At this time, the theater was transformed into a Christian church. Inside the church mosaics were formed depicting religious images some of which are still on display.

As previously stated, the excavation of the amphitheater began in the 20th Century with most developments occurring in the 1960s. Though not completely unearthed, it will likely never become fully excavated due to the housing and urban developments that have been built up on all sides of the amphitheater. The grassy stage area, the stone steps, the mosaics, the tunnels and walkways are beginning to decay but the history remains as rich as ever.

Traditional Dancing at the Opra House

In the center of Tirana is the Natural History Museum, the Statue of Skanderbeg, Et'hem Bey Mosque, and the opera house. We had the privilege of attending a cultural event at the opera house this week. 

We went to see a ballet, which I thought was going to be more like women and men in tight pink suites on their tippy toes dancing to classical music. I was completely wrong. The dancers were all dressed in traditional Albanian garb and the music was traditional also. The music was performed by a live group.

They used instruments such as the bouzouki, buzuq, tambora, and sargija. These are all stringed instrument almost like a small guitar or banjo. There were drums like the davul and dayereh which kept very specific rhythms to Albanian music. There were reed instruments like the clarinet, which would execute extremely melodic solos. The other reed instruments would play a different melody giving the music a polyphonic sound at times. The director himself was playing an accordion. He would lead and direct the music using his head and facial expressions toward the band members. The music was mysterious, inspiring, and extremely enjoyable. It made me want to dance, and sing; we all clapped at various times during the performance.

The dancing was extremely impressive. There were many group numbers in which the men and women would dance to their respective roles. There were many traditional circle dances. Normally everyone would dance separate, boys and girls, but there would always be one or two couples dancing together. There were various numbers that told a story of love and adventure. The dances were full of energy and the dancers and band members had smiles on the entire time. 

There were a few vocal pieces. One of which was an accapella number. I was extremely impressed by the sound of the group. In the U.S. our music is divided into whole and half steps. In Albania they have quarter steps making their music sound very mysterious and intriguing. I absolutely love the performance.

A Pilgrimage to the Church of Shna Ndout in the city of Laç

In a small town an hour north of Tirana is a site many Central and Northern Albanians hold as sacred. As a brief religious history, Orthodoxy was adopted by many Albanians with direction from the Greeks. With conquests of the Ottomans and the Romans, Islam and Catholicism respectively also were introduced into the Albanian society. The central part of Albania has a mix of the three religions. The further north you go, the more a catholic influence will be seen. The further south you go, the stronger the Islam influences are seen.

Lying in Northern Albania is a small town by the name of Laç which is notorious specifically for the Kisha e Shna Ndout or the "Church of Saint Anthony." The church itself is unseen from the highway and the main part of town then requiring taxi or a long walk up a mountain to get there. A number of friends of ours mentioned that many worshippers treat the church as a site of pilgrimage, so we felt desirous to participate, and made the long, uphill walk.

Up the winding roads and countless stairs we ascended without a glimpse of the church until right near the top we saw it; a large, beautiful, rustic church complete with a convent and courtyard with all the necessities for Catholic worship service. To the side of the building was a cave lined with lit candles. Inside this cave we found more candles, many pictures of people, and written prayers offered up.

A friend relayed to us the importance of this cave as it is said that this is where Saint Anthony lived and where his spirit still resides. People now often put their head up into this indented hole in the roof of the cave where it is said Saint Anthony will touch the person. It is unclear how large the cave actually is since it is gated off but there are claims that as people pray, light candles, submit offerings, or even spend the night there that miracles happen in their lives.

Prior to the roads and steps being built, the path was rocky and steep often requiring the use of ropes to complete the climb. Yet the sick and mothers with young children would still make the climb as a part of their pilgrimage. Our pilgrimage to and around the grounds of the Kisha e Shna Ndout led us into the ornate chapel, the outdoor chapel, and to a large cross sitting just above the church at the peak of the mountain.

After completing our descent, our legs were shaky, faces sweaty, and bodies a bit dehydrated but were in agreement that it was well worth the energy to see this historic piece of religious history for Catholic Albanians.

House of Hoxha

From our window at the office we have a wonderful view of the house of the old dictator Enver Halil Hoxha. It is quite appropriate, as we are interested in leadership, to have a view of the house of one of Albania's most historically influential and recent leaders. Hoxha was the communist dictator of Albania from 1944 to 1985. Under his dictatorship Albania became a more self-sufficient nation. He brought down the illiteracy rate and even was able to match it with some western countries. He made Albania agriculturally self-sufficient. He implemented equality for women in Albania, which previously was an extremely patriarchal society in which women had little rights. Under Hoxha Albania became an atheist state, wherewith all religious centers were closed down. He placed thousands of concrete bunkers all over the country to be used as outposts or protection from attacks. He wanted Albania to be able to thrive on its own without any need or influence from imperlialistic western powers. Despite some of the benefits of his dictatorship he also, like communist dictators before and after him, instituted secret police, harsh laws, and placed an iron fist on the people, and so many perished.

Albania has changed a lot since the fall of communism. The bunkers and factories lay waste and rusting throughout the nation. They are as historical monuments of a time not so long ago. Tirana within just the last ten years has doubled its infrastructure with more people and businesses having moved into the city. There are now at least two political parties competing for office. People are able to enjoy religious freedoms. The country has been working to fix its own internal problems to be able to reach its goal of joining the E.U. in the future. Albania is progressing. Here we sit in the office watching people busily bustle around all day, and see the city is rise above this house, leaving it and its past behind as the nation reaches upward towards a bright future of success.

Kruje and the Hero of Albania

I had the privilege to visit the city of Kruje this weekend. It is about a 30-40 min drive outside Tirana. The landscape is stunning with the majestic mountains overlooking the vally of farmland and smaller communities in Tirana's periphery. Kruje is located on the mountain side and overlooks the mountainous region leading into the Adriatic Sea. Many of the houses had a traditional Mediterranean style flavor in their architecture with salmon colored tiled roofs and white or walls. It was a colder than Tirana due to the altitude change. Cities like Durres could be seen from the higher part of the Kruje.

Kruje is also the location of the castle of Skenderbej, one of Albania's most influential and important historical figures. His real name is Gjergj Kastrioti (George Castrioti). He is from the Kastrioti family, which at the time was a family from a territory in northern Albania. As a child he was raised and studied with the Turks. He became a military expert and moved his way up in the ranks until he eventually became a commander, otherwise known as a bey. Eventually he abandoned the Turks and returned to his home in Albania. He rallied many of the Northern tribes of Albania to defend against the Ottomans. They never defeated Skenderbej for the duration of his life. His military genius kept the Ottomans from flooding into Europe, and the Pope named him defender of Christianity.

Skenderbej was more than just a military genius. He was also a statesman and a successful in foreign affairs. He, with his diplomats, secured good relations with kingdoms all the way from Skandenavia to the edge of the Iberian Peninsula. He is a key figure in the role of leadership in Albania. He demonstrated skills of a successful leader in bringing people together and overcoming obstacles. 

Introduction to the Blog

To get this blog kicked off properly, we would like to first express our gratitude to our employers at the Instituti I Lidershipit and other coordinators for this opportunity. Since arriving in Tirana, many people have asked us why we chose to come to Albania. True, it isn’t the first place most people think of when they plan vacations to European destinations. Many would choose Paris or Prague, London or Lisbon but it was Tirana that offered an amazing once in a lifetime opportunity.

Albania is a country with a high potential for greatness. With a rich history of strength through adversity, Albanians are no strangers to rebounding from less than favorable circumstances and is on the rise again. After great regional turmoil more than a decade ago, Albania’s economy is at the beginning of a growth spurt. The infrastructure has made the country nearly unrecognizable from its past. And the political structure is progressing as the people become more involved in the political process. With such potential, why would a person not desire to live and work in Albania?

In this blog, we invite you to take a seat in our virtual car as we experience the beauty of Albania for the very first time. Our hope is that you, as the reader and our virtual passenger, will see a side of Albania that you have never expected and gain a perspective of positivity and progression of this amazing nation.

Becoming acquainted with Albania

Tirana is a beautiful city. The average day starts at about 6 or 7 in the morning. Fruit vendors set up their stands. Cafes begin to open their doors. Bakeries fill the streets with the aroma of fresh bread like a warm temptation. And people begin to walk, drive, and bike to work. The traffic is not terrible, and it is not such a busy city. It is more of a comfortable, confident city. There are busy bodies yes, but there is still time to stop and chat for a half hour or so. There are many apartment buildings of many different colors, adding personality to the infrastructure. All day the streets are filled with different aromas coming from Italian, French, Albanian, and Turkish restaurants. Being on the Mediterranean, Albania has been infused with many other cultures that have affected the food they eat, their dress, and even their language.

Albanian is the a decsendant of the Ilyrian language. It is known as one of the more difficult languages to learn because of the tough grammar. Many of the rising generation speak English quite well. In any given nicer restaurant at least one server will speak English. Many will speak Italian, Greek, and Turkish depending on what part of Albania they are from. The food is all fresh! It is a very satisfying experience to eat fresh cheese and bread, or stone oven baked pizzas and fresh pastas. The ingredients are of much higher quality and much richer than in my own country in my opinion. I love the Food!

There is a traditional ethical code in Albania called "Besa". It is a code of integrity to live true to one's word. Together with that is a code of hospitality; to take care of and protect those in your care. The Albanians have a history of opening their homes to those in need. In WWII many Jews fled to Albania where they were welcomed openly. The Albanians would have protected the Jews to the death. Again during the Serbian War, many Kosovars (who are technically ethnically Albanians) flooded into the north of Albania seeking refuge. It is a respectful and inspirational code and way of life, to show such compassion on others.

Albania has a rich and vast amount of history. It has undergone two imperial conquests, namely Rome and the Ottomans. It has also endured a communist dictatorship. To see the country now, it is impressive after learning of its history, to see how it has progressed. Though Albania has a lot to work on, progress and opportunity are ever present.

- January 2015
Jesse B.