A Pilgrimage to the Church of Shna Ndout in the city of Laç

In a small town an hour north of Tirana is a site many Central and Northern Albanians hold as sacred. As a brief religious history, Orthodoxy was adopted by many Albanians with direction from the Greeks. With conquests of the Ottomans and the Romans, Islam and Catholicism respectively also were introduced into the Albanian society. The central part of Albania has a mix of the three religions. The further north you go, the more a catholic influence will be seen. The further south you go, the stronger the Islam influences are seen.

Lying in Northern Albania is a small town by the name of Laç which is notorious specifically for the Kisha e Shna Ndout or the "Church of Saint Anthony." The church itself is unseen from the highway and the main part of town then requiring taxi or a long walk up a mountain to get there. A number of friends of ours mentioned that many worshippers treat the church as a site of pilgrimage, so we felt desirous to participate, and made the long, uphill walk.

Up the winding roads and countless stairs we ascended without a glimpse of the church until right near the top we saw it; a large, beautiful, rustic church complete with a convent and courtyard with all the necessities for Catholic worship service. To the side of the building was a cave lined with lit candles. Inside this cave we found more candles, many pictures of people, and written prayers offered up.

A friend relayed to us the importance of this cave as it is said that this is where Saint Anthony lived and where his spirit still resides. People now often put their head up into this indented hole in the roof of the cave where it is said Saint Anthony will touch the person. It is unclear how large the cave actually is since it is gated off but there are claims that as people pray, light candles, submit offerings, or even spend the night there that miracles happen in their lives.

Prior to the roads and steps being built, the path was rocky and steep often requiring the use of ropes to complete the climb. Yet the sick and mothers with young children would still make the climb as a part of their pilgrimage. Our pilgrimage to and around the grounds of the Kisha e Shna Ndout led us into the ornate chapel, the outdoor chapel, and to a large cross sitting just above the church at the peak of the mountain.

After completing our descent, our legs were shaky, faces sweaty, and bodies a bit dehydrated but were in agreement that it was well worth the energy to see this historic piece of religious history for Catholic Albanians.