Thursday, March 26, 2015

Fresh Food

Food is the giver of life. In Albania it has been wonderful eating fresh food. Good wholesome food is available from the market, fruit vendors, and bakeries and it is all fresh! Some of the produce comes from the farms that morning. The greens like lettuce, onions, spinach, and other herbs make for a delicious salad.

Cheese in Albania is something special. They use in in a lot of dishes and foods. You'll find it in salads, in byrek, pastas, pizzas, and it even goes dilightfully well with jam on bread. They have many varieties ranging from sharp to creamy, crumbly to soft. It is the perfect way to flavour a dish.

The bread is extremely tasty along with the pastries and sweet goods. They have fresh loafs of white, wheat, and multigrain. Cookies, eclairs, crossants, and trileche cakes are some of the best dessert goods.

At the end of the day when you head to the cafe with friends hot chocolate is a treat. When you ask for hot chocolate, first you are expecting a hot cocoa drink, but what arrives is a thick chocolate pudding-like treat. It is delightful!

And lastly, Fanta Exotic. You wont find it anywhere else. I don't like Fanta myself, but Fanta Exotic is pretty good. Albania is one of the only nations in which it can be found.





Communicating in Albania

The way in which we understand each other is an art, a skill, and a necessity. Communication is vastly different between people around the world. A culture can have a profound effect on one's communication and paradigm. In that way it is like a cultural artifact; a piece of how people are around the world. It gives uniqueness to interactions between people around the world.

Albanians are a direct people. Conversations can seem like fights or arguments when really it is just a discussion between friends or family. Raising of the voice may not always mean anger. It isn't uncommon for an Albanian to say things bluntly or boldly. For example, we had met a group of people one day. A few days later we saw one of them in the street. We said hello and chatted for a bit. Later that night we were chatting with another friend of ours. We explained to her that we had seen the other friend earlier that day. She asked us to describe the person. Trying to be polite we used words like "strong," "tall," and "filled." With a look of confusion she asked,"You mean the fat one?"
Our faces turn red and we are suprised at her bluntness, "Yes, yes that's the one."

Gestures in Albania are also hard to catch. Shaking the head is a sign for "yes". This was quite confusing at first. When asked questions at the store like, "would you like a bag?" I would shake my head trying to say no. Then they would smile, gather my things and place them in a bag.  

In Albania, or anywhere for that matter, it is important to pay attention to how people communicate. Direct and foreward cultures like the Albanians may come off as rude, aggressive, and out of line, when actually what they are saying is not hurtful, offensive, or aggresive in any way. They are simply saying exaclty what they feel or see. And gestures are different everywhere.

Tuesday, March 24, 2015

Top of Tirana

I went up to Dajti, a gondola on the outskirts of Tirana this last weekend. The gondola is set up extremely well as a tourist spot. At the bottom there is a cafe where one can eat and share drinks with friends before the ascent up the mountain. The gondola itself fits about eight people, which is perfect for a group of friends or travelers. Ahead of me were a family and two groups of youth. 

The ride was beautiful, smooth, and quiet. It took about 15 minutes and the ascent was quite gradual. At the top the temperature was quite cooler but the sun kept a warm gaze over everything. They had a park where children were playing, horseback riding, pellet gun shooting, and hiking. There was a hotel and a restaurant overlooking the entire city. The place is an ideal tourist location. I thought of how cool it would be in the winter time if they would cover the trees and buildings in lights, maybe include a big tree exiting the gondola station.

The view was incredible. I sat there for a good half hour or more taking it all in. The mountains and the sea went on forever. I thought about some research I had done on influential figures in Albania's history.

I thought of Pashko Vasa in his poem "Oh Albania, Poor Albania." I imagined him possibly standing in a similar place like this on a mountain overlooking the country; how he felt about his countrymen dividing themselves because of differing faiths, supposed nationalities, and language. He cried to his people to remember who they were and come together. 

I thought of Ndre Mjeda in his piece "Freedom." In a similar spot perhaps, and upon seeing the never-ending mountains thinking, 


"Tell me, eagles, birds of the highlands,
Do the rays of freedom shine upon those peaks,
In the rugged mountain pastures and clearings
Where springs of fresh water murmur in longing?
Have you heard the echo of its anthem
On your flights o'er the cliffs,
Have you heard its comforting song?
Tell me, eagles, birds of the highlands.
Freedom, freedom, the mountains cry,
But can we find it on the earth we ply,
Or will slavery veil our every step?
Fly, eagle, fly to horizons far away,
The mountains surrounding Albania, survey,
Tell us where freedom takes its source.

Freedom is yours! We have iron bars,
Yet we languish in the mists and sombre night,
No one knows our name, stripped of our country,
We are slaves of the strangers on our own soil.
Like chattel sold to the butcher, we're driven,
Crazed, by his cane where we don't wish to go,
Sighs and lamentation on the lips of our people,
Suffering and grief is the name of our land.
The storm of highland heroes in vain
Infiltrates the sleeping plain
Like a bolt of lightning from the clouds.
Crushed by cruel oppression and travail,
Shake in their tombs to no avail
The forgotten bones of Dukagjini and Scanderbeg the Hero.

But no, the Albanian race has not been stamped out,
Wearied by the beatings of a harsh enemy,
Bowed by the darkness of servitude,
It broods and waits for its sudden awakening.
And behold, the flashing strokes of freedom
Extend through the mountains, in stealth advance
From hut to hut, yes, the shadow of Scanderbeg,
A new spirit expands throughout the land.
The mothers of Hoti tend cradles, childbed,
Where fledgling young heroes are nurtured and fed
On the milk of revolt.
And high in the mountains, splendour regal,
Claws outstretched, the Albanian eagle,
Spreads its formidable wings."



"Hope"

Having had the opportunity to speak with Albanian nationals about their own country I have been curious to see how they feel about their own nation. Generally, in my experience Albanians are a patriotic people. They love their food, traditions, and way of life. On other occasions I have spoken with others who do not share the same pride as their compatriots.  

Some have lost faith in their government and its ability to lead the nation. They express that their country now has too many problems to fix. They laugh at the idea of ever being a global player or having an important role in the international stage. They doubt the possibility of joining the EU and constantly compare their nation with other more successful nations. At first I was disheartened and surprised by this apathetic view of one's own nation. 

After pondering on it I had thought also of those who, in my own nation, see only a bleak and unsuccessful future. They complain and accuse their country's leaders for everything. They believe because the President is a Democrat or a Republican that America is doomed. They become bitter and loose hope in their own nation's capacity to do great things. 

The Institute of Leadership has opened my eyes to a different outlook on problems in governments, businesses, and organizations. I have met people with an edified perspective. These often young leaders are learning to take their current situation as it is. They see the future as a goal to accomplish. Yes there are problems and difficult issues now, but an apathetic and negative outlook will only push progress back. They have dreams for their lives and the future of their nation. They speak of Albania being a place of tourism. They talk of its potential and strengths. They believe in their ability and their nation's capacity to do great things. They are learning to lead their lives, and thus become leaders in their respective career paths.

I have learned from them and have changed my own outlook on my own country. I understand that no county has a perfect government free from all corruption and error. It is my responsibility as a future leader in my nation to believe in my nation's capacity to do great things. 

"Hope"

I have great hope
In God
That he will not abandon
Albania thus,
           But that she will shine forth
           And break into blossom.

May the day dawn
That will bestow upon us
A great light,
Giving birth to:
          Civilization,
          Prosperity.

Fraternity
And unity
And compassion
Are our salvation.
           Happy is he who will be present
           When this day comes

When Albania 
Will be radiant
And misfortune
Will be banished 
          Forever
          From her sight.

For Albania
Joyous days 
Are at hand.
The darkness is receding
          Happy is he who will live 
          To see her reign!

For the Albanian
And his language
Are at one
With Albania.
          Happy is he who will
          Behold her soon!

Knowledge
And progress,
And humanity
          Will arise,
          Never to stray.


-Naim Frasheri (Albanian Poet)

Monday, March 16, 2015

Culture Crash Course

Upon arrival I remember stepping off the plain and retreating to a seat in the cafe as my ride had not yet arrived. I watched as groups would enter for their loved ones, greet each other and leave together. The women would always greet each other by a kiss to each cheek and then a hug. The women and men would do the same. Men would place their heads together, touching temples on each side. The culture is very affectionate between family and friends.

After talking to some Albanians about behaviors that are considered polite they gave me a crash course. They explained the greeting with a kiss or placing heads together. They told me that on a bus or in a room, when a woman or elderly person enters, it is customary for men to give up their seat. When people enter a room it is correct to rise and greet them. It is also expected that when walking up stairs, men walk in front of women, and behind them on the way down. Students are expected to rise to greet their teachers. Greetings may be seen as affectionate, but Albania is a more conservative nation. For example, kissing is not common in public. Showing intimate affection is not something you would commonly see outside of the home or in the presence of guests.

Albanians are known for being a hospitable people. A friend shared with me a saying, "An Albanian household is always open to God and guests." A visit is not seen as a quick "drop by." When visiting someone it is important you have given yourself time to be able to sit down, chat, and maybe share a drink. It is not so polite to just drop in and then leave. When guests arrive to the house the hosts will rise from their seats and offer them to their guests.


Vlore

Upon arrival I remember stepping off the plain and retreating to a seat in the cafe as my ride had not yet arrived. I watched as groups would enter for their loved ones, greet each other and leave together. The women would always greet each other by a kiss to each cheek and then a hug. The women and men would do the same. Men would place their heads together, touching temples on each side. The culture is very affectionate between family and friends. After talking to some Albanians about behaviors that are considered polite they gave me a crash course. They explained the greeting with a kiss or placing heads together. They told me that on a bus or in a room, when a woman or elderly person enters, it is customary for men to give up their seat. When people enter a room it is correct to rise and greet them. It is also expected that when walking up stairs, men walk in front of women, and behind them on the way down. Students are expected to rise to greet their teachers. Greetings may be seen as affectionate, but Albania is a more conservative nation. For example, kissing is not common in public. Showing intimate affection is not something you would commonly see outside of the home or in the presence of guests. Albanians are known for being a hospitable people. A friend shared with me a saying, "An Albanian household is always open to God and guests." A visit is not seen as a quick "drop by." When visiting someone it is important you have given yourself time to be able to sit down, chat, and maybe share a drink. It is not so polite to just drop in and then leave. When guests arrive to the house the hosts will rise from their seats and offer them to their guests.

Monday, March 2, 2015

The Amphitheater of Durrës


On the coast of the Adriatic Sea is the Albanian city of Durrës. The city boasts a magnificent coastal view as well as an incredible importance in the history of Albania. Romans, on their way to the Middle East and beyond to the Silk Road would travel directly through this city making it a hub for economic development. Thus it is no surprise that in the 20th Century an archeological discovery was unearthed just to the side of where the original road for the Romans was used. This discovery was a large amphitheater.

It is estimated that in the 2nd Century the amphitheater was built and was home to many gladiator fights, beast battles, and theatrical performances. The amphitheater seats between 15,000-18,000 people making it the largest amphitheater in Southeastern Europe. It remained a place of performances and fights until the rise of the Byzantines in Albania in the 5th Century. At this time, the theater was transformed into a Christian church. Inside the church mosaics were formed depicting religious images some of which are still on display.



As previously stated, the excavation of the amphitheater began in the 20th Century with most developments occurring in the 1960s. Though not completely unearthed, it will likely never become fully excavated due to the housing and urban developments that have been built up on all sides of the amphitheater. The grassy stage area, the stone steps, the mosaics, the tunnels and walkways are beginning to decay but the history remains as rich as ever.