Something Small

Often when we journey abroad, our visit is sure to be full of any combination of museums, monuments, architecture, history, and nature. These are the grand things we research and prepare ourselves for before we depart, and they certainly impact our trip. But filling in the gaps between these large bullet points on our list of things to do are small experiences which can really define your experience, and often leave a more lasting impression than everything you read on the internet before you landed. What I am writing about today is incredibly small, and maybe insignificant to most people.

Tirana, and Albania in general, has more than the usual amount of stray dogs - at least among the countries I've visited. At first, this concerned me. I adore dogs. When it comes to dogs, my family is not known to behave in an entirely rational manner. We tend to cancel long planned family vacations when our dogs show even an inkling of getting sick. So at first, seeing all of the stray dogs wandering the city broke my heart. A few days later, I noticed that none of the dogs I had seen showed any signs of starvation, which made me feel a bit better. It wasn't until a few weeks into my time here that I began to witness something which not only consoled me, but absolutely warmed my heart. It was something that I have never before seen in all my time living and travelling in North America, Europe, Asia, and the Middle East. I saw locals playing with and petting stray dogs. 

The first few times I saw people petting these dogs I was surprised, but I treated them as isolated incidents. However, as this kept happening, I was struck by how different this scene was from anywhere I'd been. I have only witnessed stray animals seen as a nuisance, and I would say the experience is the same for most people. I can't say that this has given me some profound insight into Albanian culture, and as previously stated, this may not even be significant to anyone besides someone who is as obsessed with dogs as I am. I would say however, that this demonstrates what I have already seen. Albanians are a very kindhearted people, and this kindness extends not just to people, but even to stray dogs. 

Our new friend chilling in the Durres Amphitheatre 

At Home Amongst Antiquity

Leaving the fortress at Elbasan

There are many countries which can boast castles and fortresses, and Albania is no different. However, the fortresses found in Berat and Elbasan have something which sets an entirely different atmosphere than the restored and converted museum/castles you will find throughout  Europe. There are people who still live within their walls. As you wander through the narrow streets, managing as best you can not to trip over the cobblestone, you will run into people who are as local as you can get, willing to give directions should you find yourself disoriented or even happy to show you around for a bit. Having a living population breathes a certain life into a centuries old castle which you'll never get from an endless stream of tourists.

Church in Elbasan

Elbasan's fortress dates back to the 15th century, and within its walls there are several churches and a mosque. However, the greatest surprise came when a car approached us from behind, expertly managing the narrow streets without making so much as a scratch. I will never cease to be amazed by European drivers and their ability to navigate tiny streets without suffering a panic attack like the one I certainly didn't have while driving in Edinburgh.

Our guide and the old (but relatively new)

communist residence within the castle.

The castle in Berat was built in several stages. The first structure, after it was destroyed by the Romans, was later rebuilt and then fortified by Byzantine Emperors during the 4th and 5th centuries. The buildings currently found within the walls of this fortress are a bit newer, only dating back to the 13th century. It's like when you're touring a thousand year old cathedral in Kyiv and your guide points out that the floors are new, from the 1600's. After seeing everything we thought we needed to see, we encountered an enthusiastic local who wanted to give us a bit of a tour. The pride he had in his home was evident, and as he showed us around he painted a vivid picture of what these ruins used to be. Despite how incredible the castle was, this is what stood out to me the most. Berat is one of the oldest continually inhabited cities, and as you wander around, you will find people who live amongst antiquity. There is something about those places where you will find incredible churches and impossibly old ruins, but for the people who live there, it's just home.

Not a bad street to live on, eh?

Old church with an incredible view in Berat

View from Above

Albania has its fair share of stunning mountains, with some being far more accessible than others. Albania's capital city, Tirana, lies at the foot of Mount Dajti. A hike to this peak is particularly worthwhile for the spectacular vantage point and view of the city below. There are two options for reaching this summit. A gondola service can take you very near the top giving you a lovely scope of the landscape as you ascend, or you can just scale right up the mountain yourself.

The path leading to the peak is

delightful and has everything you could ask for in a short mountain trail with a few extras as it is dotted with crumbling stone buildings and later some concrete bunkers from Albania's complicated past. It brings to mind the oft quoted line by Jane Austen, "What are men to rocks and mountains?" We even found just enough snow higher up for a few snow angels which left much to be desired and a rather refreshing snowball fight. Reaching the top, any exhaustion you feel is made entirely worth it as you see the city in a way you never would have otherwise.

When the time comes to return to Tirana, a short ride on the aforementioned gondola is the perfect way to marvel at what you have just climbed. The whole experience is a wonderful way to escape from the city when you only have a few hours. It also serves as a nice warmup (or perhaps a rude awakening if you have found all that delicious byrek catching up to you) before braving some of the more strenuous trails. I am certainly looking forward to experiencing more of Albania's alluring natural beauty.

Brotherhood Feeling in Albania

After being in Albania for a short while, we were able to notice the feeling of brotherhood that exists among the Albanians, both old and young.

Walking down the street, you might witness a busy little center square, full of the young and the old. You might see a group of youth playing soccer, some middle-age men selling anything from cigarettes to used mobile phones, from snacks to magazines.

But my favorite part was seeing the old men all gathered around a chess board, dressed in nice button-up shirts and pants, with an occasional flat cap (or newsboy cap) to top their classy appearance. The rivalry between the two opponents is more intense than you can imagine, but it has a feeling of fun brotherly competition.

The fun thing is that you will see this in many places, and you’ll see the joy that comes from all those who are involved.

As you look at the youth, you see where this brotherhood all started. It isn’t uncommon to see two buddies with their arms over the others shoulders, or to see two friends embrace and give a kiss on the cheek after a while of not seeing each other.

It doesn’t matter where you go in Albania, you will be able to see the brotherhood that exists, and they are such an open and welcoming people that they will let you in to that brotherhood.

To Be a Pedestrian in Albania

Whatever country you are coming from, there is a high chance that the street culture of Albania might be a bit of a surprise from where you live. When I say street culture, I mean that quite literally- what it's like to walk or drive on the streets in Albania.

In short, it's crazy.

But it's a kind of crazy that can be kind of fun. In Albania, the pedestrian and the car have a mutual understanding and are both ever mindful of the other. There is not as much of a "right-of-way" mentality, rather a "first-one-to-go" mentality.

When you need to cross the street, you just go. Maybe wait for the coming car, but it's well understood that you just go. Now on the flip side, there is a similar understanding for the driver. You might wait for one person, but then you push forward and go. It forces everyone to be alert on the road and I kind of like it. It's busy and it's somewhat crazy, but it works. Everyone shares the road and everyone is bold and just goes for it. In Albania, you will find a culture of go, go, go, but I think that you'll find that it's quite refreshing.

Religion in Albania

A country that was once under Communist rule has now become a country open to religion, with freedom to follow and worship in whatever faith one believes.

Mosque in the central area of Tirana.

According to the 2009 Report on International Religious Freedom, “the majority of citizens do not actively practice a faith; however, the four traditional religious groups are Muslim (Sunni), Bektashi (a form of Shi’a Sufism), Orthodox Christian (the Autocephalous Orthodox Church of Albania), and Roman Catholic. In addition, there are substantial numbers of Protestant denominations and other religious groups, including Baha’is, Jehovah’s Witnesses, and members of The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (Mormons).”

As you travel throughout the cities and beautiful landscapes of Albania, it is evident that there is a strong presence of the Muslim religion, due to the many Mosques that are seen. These mosques are many times in the town center or close by, as is true in the pictures both above and to the left, where the Mosque is at the center of Durrës and Tirana life.

You also see a strong presence of Orthodox Christian churches, depending on where you visit the country. There is a bigger presence of Orthodox churches as you go south, towards Northern Greece.

Orthodox Church near the port in Durrës

One of the greatest things about the culture of Albania is that they are very open and willing to share stories and conversation with you, no matter what race, gender, religion, etc. There doesn’t appear to be religious tension (at least that I have noticed), and it seems as though all of the religions treat each other fairly and with kindness. 

Pope Francis even noticed that Albanians are a very open and loving people among the many faiths that exist. According to a 2014 article from The Telegraph, Pope Francis said, “there is a rather beautiful characteristic of Albania, one which gives me great joy: I am referring to the peaceful coexistence and collaboration that exists among followers of different religions…" He then continued:

"The climate of respect and mutual trust between Catholics, Orthodox and Muslims is a precious gift to the country.” -Pope Francis

Church near the center of Tirana

Whether you identify more with those of the Muslim belief, the Mormon faith, the Catholics, or Greek Orthodox, or none at all, you are sure to feel safe in openly practicing your faith in the religiously tolerant country of Albania.

The LDS / Mormon Church in Durrës

Various Beaches of Durrës

When my wife and daughter and I visited the many beautiful beaches of Durrës, we obviously expected to see the sand, the sea, and have some relaxation. Surely we got all that, but there were many unexpected surprises that kept on popping up, and an amazing variety of beaches just within the city of Durrës.

West of the Port

Just west of the port in Durrës, you'll find a lively sea-side walk with plenty of activities you would find at a fair or amusement park- bumper cars, bounce houses, rides, and everything. This is ideal for a stroll at night and for families that have young children.

You can find restaurants of many kinds- lots of sea food and Albanian staples (byrek, sufllaqe, doner, etc.) but also a large variety of Italian, Greek, Turkish, and American food (try Wild West!)- and arguably the best gelato you'll ever find. It is just as good, if not better, than the gelato selection you'd find in Italy at a place called Çela. Çela is located right by Pista e Re and Muzeu Arkeologjik (the Archeological Museum), as well as the famous Durrës Amphitheater. They have a signature flavor also named Çela that is to die for- plus dozens of other flavors that melt in your mouth and make you want to come back every day.

Southeast of the Port

If you are looking for sandy beaches to swim and build sandcastles, you'll want to go just southeast of the port, where you will find miles of sandy beaches, umbrellas, food vendors, and fun. Of course one can always expect some type of concession stand at most beaches, but we were pleasantly surprised by the experience that the sandy beaches of Durrës gave to us.

Donut Holes (Petulla Casti)

There are food vendors that pass by frequently that give a variety of food. Our favorite snacks were the popcorn, ice cream, and the donut holes/mini donuts. The best part (besides the taste, o course) was how cheap it all was! It was 50 lek for a good-size bag of popcorn (about $0.41), and only 100 lek (about $0.82) for the ice cream cone and another 100 lek for the bag of donut holes. They put powdered sugar on top of it, with the option for honey, chocolate, caramel, or even ketchup and mustard if you want to go the savory route. Needless to say, you're in for some delicious treats if you go to the sandy beaches of Durrës.

Petulla Casti Vendors

Another fun surprise was seeing a bear. Yes, you heard me- a bear. You will see a guy every once in a while with a trained bear on a leash, going around to see if you want to take a picture with it. I have yet to do it, but it was incredibly cool to see a bear just walk by on the beach.

So these are only a few of the beaches that Durrës and Albania have to offer. Whether they be the delicious treats, the fun carnival rides, or the bears that walk by while you sunbathe, you are sure to have a unique and memorable experience on the beaches of Durrës.

-JM