At Home Amongst Antiquity

Leaving the fortress at Elbasan

There are many countries which can boast castles and fortresses, and Albania is no different. However, the fortresses found in Berat and Elbasan have something which sets an entirely different atmosphere than the restored and converted museum/castles you will find throughout  Europe. There are people who still live within their walls. As you wander through the narrow streets, managing as best you can not to trip over the cobblestone, you will run into people who are as local as you can get, willing to give directions should you find yourself disoriented or even happy to show you around for a bit. Having a living population breathes a certain life into a centuries old castle which you'll never get from an endless stream of tourists.

Church in Elbasan

Elbasan's fortress dates back to the 15th century, and within its walls there are several churches and a mosque. However, the greatest surprise came when a car approached us from behind, expertly managing the narrow streets without making so much as a scratch. I will never cease to be amazed by European drivers and their ability to navigate tiny streets without suffering a panic attack like the one I certainly didn't have while driving in Edinburgh.

Our guide and the old (but relatively new)

communist residence within the castle.

The castle in Berat was built in several stages. The first structure, after it was destroyed by the Romans, was later rebuilt and then fortified by Byzantine Emperors during the 4th and 5th centuries. The buildings currently found within the walls of this fortress are a bit newer, only dating back to the 13th century. It's like when you're touring a thousand year old cathedral in Kyiv and your guide points out that the floors are new, from the 1600's. After seeing everything we thought we needed to see, we encountered an enthusiastic local who wanted to give us a bit of a tour. The pride he had in his home was evident, and as he showed us around he painted a vivid picture of what these ruins used to be. Despite how incredible the castle was, this is what stood out to me the most. Berat is one of the oldest continually inhabited cities, and as you wander around, you will find people who live amongst antiquity. There is something about those places where you will find incredible churches and impossibly old ruins, but for the people who live there, it's just home.

Not a bad street to live on, eh?

Old church with an incredible view in Berat