At Home Amongst Antiquity

Leaving the fortress at Elbasan

There are many countries which can boast castles and fortresses, and Albania is no different. However, the fortresses found in Berat and Elbasan have something which sets an entirely different atmosphere than the restored and converted museum/castles you will find throughout  Europe. There are people who still live within their walls. As you wander through the narrow streets, managing as best you can not to trip over the cobblestone, you will run into people who are as local as you can get, willing to give directions should you find yourself disoriented or even happy to show you around for a bit. Having a living population breathes a certain life into a centuries old castle which you'll never get from an endless stream of tourists.

Church in Elbasan

Elbasan's fortress dates back to the 15th century, and within its walls there are several churches and a mosque. However, the greatest surprise came when a car approached us from behind, expertly managing the narrow streets without making so much as a scratch. I will never cease to be amazed by European drivers and their ability to navigate tiny streets without suffering a panic attack like the one I certainly didn't have while driving in Edinburgh.

Our guide and the old (but relatively new)

communist residence within the castle.

The castle in Berat was built in several stages. The first structure, after it was destroyed by the Romans, was later rebuilt and then fortified by Byzantine Emperors during the 4th and 5th centuries. The buildings currently found within the walls of this fortress are a bit newer, only dating back to the 13th century. It's like when you're touring a thousand year old cathedral in Kyiv and your guide points out that the floors are new, from the 1600's. After seeing everything we thought we needed to see, we encountered an enthusiastic local who wanted to give us a bit of a tour. The pride he had in his home was evident, and as he showed us around he painted a vivid picture of what these ruins used to be. Despite how incredible the castle was, this is what stood out to me the most. Berat is one of the oldest continually inhabited cities, and as you wander around, you will find people who live amongst antiquity. There is something about those places where you will find incredible churches and impossibly old ruins, but for the people who live there, it's just home.

Not a bad street to live on, eh?

Old church with an incredible view in Berat

View from Above

Albania has its fair share of stunning mountains, with some being far more accessible than others. Albania's capital city, Tirana, lies at the foot of Mount Dajti. A hike to this peak is particularly worthwhile for the spectacular vantage point and view of the city below. There are two options for reaching this summit. A gondola service can take you very near the top giving you a lovely scope of the landscape as you ascend, or you can just scale right up the mountain yourself.

The path leading to the peak is

delightful and has everything you could ask for in a short mountain trail with a few extras as it is dotted with crumbling stone buildings and later some concrete bunkers from Albania's complicated past. It brings to mind the oft quoted line by Jane Austen, "What are men to rocks and mountains?" We even found just enough snow higher up for a few snow angels which left much to be desired and a rather refreshing snowball fight. Reaching the top, any exhaustion you feel is made entirely worth it as you see the city in a way you never would have otherwise.

When the time comes to return to Tirana, a short ride on the aforementioned gondola is the perfect way to marvel at what you have just climbed. The whole experience is a wonderful way to escape from the city when you only have a few hours. It also serves as a nice warmup (or perhaps a rude awakening if you have found all that delicious byrek catching up to you) before braving some of the more strenuous trails. I am certainly looking forward to experiencing more of Albania's alluring natural beauty.